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Inboard Joint Separation

 
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David Smith



Joined: 27 May 2008
Posts: 191

PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 4:17 pm    Post subject: Inboard Joint Separation Reply with quote

Hi,

I have a 1979 1300 Manual Box s2. I am trying to renew the CV Boot.

I have popped all the ball joints no problem. However the next stage according to Hanyes requires tool 18G 1243, to separate the inboard joint.

Is there a way I can do this with out the tool? I am worried about spilling the gearbox oil everywhere.

Or is it possible to hire this tool or a similar devise?

Any advise please.

Thanks
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M. Irvine



Joined: 21 Jan 2007
Posts: 804
Location: Farnham, Surrey.

PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

David,

Have you drained the engine/transmission oil? Some oil will come out if you remove the shaft from the differential.

With the correct tool the job takes seconds. It can be done WITH CARE using a couple of tyre levers or similar, levering either side of the inner CV joint. Take care not to damage the transmission casing and the differential oil seal.

Ideally I would replace the differential oil seal before rebuilding.

Alternatively it is possible to remove the CV joint from the driveshaft. If you remove the CV boot, and hold the shaft it is usually possible to tap the CV joint to separate it from the shaft.

Merv.
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David Smith



Joined: 27 May 2008
Posts: 191

PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 8:52 pm    Post subject: Inboard joint separation Reply with quote

Merv,

Thanks for your help. I will try to pop it from the Boot end over the Weekend.


Thanks Dave
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Laurence



Joined: 17 Jul 2007
Posts: 1408
Location: Plymouth

PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi David,

Before you tackle the CV boot job, have a look at the driveshaft seals in the diff casing (like Merv says above).

If they/it is leaking, it's probably time to change them/it anyway, so it would be a good idea to remove the shafts to enable easier/better access to the CV boot/s.

The correct inner CV boot on a 1300 manual box should be turned inside-out , then a clamp fitted where the CV boot fits on the shaft, then turned the correct way, filled with grease, & then a clamp fitted where the CV boot attaches to the CV joint.

Doing all the above when you're working under the car can be literally a pain in the neck. But if you want to do it this way, have you considered using a CV boot installing cone? You don't have to remove the shaft or split the CV joint from the shaft, you cut the old boot off & slide the new one on.

The CV boot installing tool can be obtained from a local motor factor or from Frost Restorers Equipment www.frost.co.uk 01706 658619. M760

They also list a clamp fitting tool M762 & some clamps M763.

You'll need plenty of rubber lube to slide the boot over the cone.

An alternative to the 1300 Allegro style inner CV boot is a 1300 Metro CV boot, it will fit the shaft & CV joint, but it looks the same as the outer CV boot ie the standard style, so you won't have to fit it inside-out etc.

Frost lists four sizes of CV boot.
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David Smith



Joined: 27 May 2008
Posts: 191

PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 2:39 pm    Post subject: Inboard Reply with quote

Hi,

Watched a video explaining it all on Youtube and it seems like a good idea to use cone method. It is suggest that a Special POP cv boot is used.

I have ordered them both.

Thanks very much for you info.

Cheers Dave
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Laurence



Joined: 17 Jul 2007
Posts: 1408
Location: Plymouth

PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

I've used the cone on the ordinary rubber CV boots (not on an Allegro) & found it easy going with plenty of lube.

The special/softer rubber CV boots (to use with the cone) aren't really neccassary & I don't know if they are as durable.

The rubber boots would be necassary if you were to replace certain types of CV boots which are stiff/plastic, like those on Suzukis for example (you couldn't fit the original plastic style boots using the cone).
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Paul-V



Joined: 02 Jul 2007
Posts: 1463
Location: The National Forest

PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Digressing off-topic slightly, I bought & sold a few old Renaults back in the late '80s and early '90s, and using a cone was the only way to do a CV boot on one of those because of the way the driveshaft was manufactured.
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Laurence



Joined: 17 Jul 2007
Posts: 1408
Location: Plymouth

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Paul,

To change the outer CV boot on the old Renaults without using a cone, the driveshaft needs to be removed, the inner CV joint boot & outer element should then be removed, then removing the circlip, release the inner element of the CV joint from the shaft, then change the outer CV boot etc. & re-assemble.
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David Smith



Joined: 27 May 2008
Posts: 191

PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 12:35 pm    Post subject: Inboard joint Reply with quote

Hi,

Got the CV Boot done yesterday. Had to use a special stretchy CV Boot to get it over the cone. Thanks for all you advise.

Cheers Dave
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Laurence



Joined: 17 Jul 2007
Posts: 1408
Location: Plymouth

PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Glad to hear it's sorted. Smile

cheers, Laurence.
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